That's my Co-teacher!

in

Today, I witnessed a milestone occur in one my classes today. To illustrate a story in one of the units about a gang fight, Yogesh (my co-teacher) grabbed a student by the shoulder and pretended to stab him in the stomach. You probably have two questions: "Why is that a big deal?" and "Is that even appropriate in a classroom?" To answer the second question first, it's India. So why is it a milestone?

Here's what a typical English class looks like at the high school. Teacher reads a paragraph of a story. Teacher asks a couple students to stand up and read the paragraph back. Teacher verbally translates the paragraph sentence by sentence into Gujarati. Rinse and repeat until the story is finished. Part of the reason that I'm here is to be an example of a teacher that deviates from this model and have my co-teacher pick up on some strategies that can get students to become more engaged learners. For example, I've drawn pictures on the board to go along with the unit, played simple games, and told "fun" and relevant stories from my own life. What Yogesh did today is something no other teacher at this school would ever have done in their whole career of teaching. By no means is this a sure sign that English is going to now thrive wherever Yogesh walks, but I've learned that developing as a teacher happens a half-step at a time. I forgot to give Yogesh constructive feedback for what I saw him do today. I'll remember to do that tomorrow, so maybe that's the second half-step to go with the one he made today.

Welcome Back!

in

My apologies for not posting for over 2 months now. Circumstances for me in the village had been taxing on me leading up to a much needed break back home in the states. I guess the hiatus I took from blogging shows how I felt I needed to take more than a few steps back from the whole situation and just recuperate in more ways than one. But now having sorted out visa issues and gotten on the plane back to India, I'm back, honestly feeling renewed and ready to finish the commitment I made to the best of my ability.

Having been gone for such a long time, I received a number of different welcome back's. My Spoken English students wouldn't stop telling me that I was "late" and that Zach had been trying to convince them that the reason was because I had been attacked by a leopard. My co-teacher, shaking hands with one hand and wrapping the other around my shoulder, told me that teaching alone felt weirdly different and was glad that I was back. Everyone had their own way of saying welcome back, but it wasn't until last night that I really felt like I received the homecoming India was waiting to give me.

Leslie, program director for Princeton in Asia, was flying into Mumbai to visit our site, so I had left with our town driver to pick her up from the airport. Vimul, our driver, is one of the most trustworthy guys we have in the village, and in more than 25 years of driving experience, he had never once been in an accident (and that's saying a lot driving in India). Someone who rides with Vimulbhai for the first time would never know his safety track record though. He weaves in and out of traffic, aggressively cutting off cars to jockey for position on the roads and highways that are more often than not extremely congested.

It was around 6:00pm, a few hours into our trip back to the village when Vimulbhai swerved into a lane in between two big trucks. Unexpectedly, the truck in front of us slammed on its breaks, forcing Vimulbhai to make an abrupt stop as well. I tensed up for a split second, waiting for the sound of screeching tires from the truck behind us and bracing for a possible impact. No sound, so I loosened up. But then BAM. The back of my head slammed on the headrest. I threw up my hands quick enough to stop myself from hitting the seat in front of me. Glass from the back window showered over us. The driver of the truck behind us was an extremely young boy, 14 years old, and wasn't tall enough enough to see over his dashboard that Vimulbhai had swerved right in front of him.


Thankfully no one was seriously hurt. Sore necks and a bruise on the head were the worst injuries. I just sat in the back of the van while Vimulbhai, the truck driver, and other witnesses yelled at each other in a mixture of Gujarati and Hindi that I could barely understand. Yes, India, I'm back, and I missed you, too.

Some Poor Word Choice.. That's All

in

In a lesson about disposing waste to protect the environment and preventing animals from eating harmful plastic garbage, one of the comprehension questions startled me:

What do you feel for dumb animals?

I really don't know how I feel...

Happy Birthday, Gandhiji

in


We need to be the change we wish to see in the world.

A Different Kind of Science Fair

in


Yesterday, I was told that some of the 6th grade students were going to be put on a small science presentation for the faculty. I was expecting something along the lines of what I would find at a science fair back at home. I mean, how complex could a presentation given by a 6th grade student get, right?

So a couple students walked into the staffroom, they were probably close to about half my height. They had with them a toy car and truck, with some wires coming out of the body of the truck attached to a battery. I guess nothing too out of the ordinary yet. The students arranged their project on the table, then with straight backs, they began their presentation. I couldn't understand a lot of it since they were speaking in Gujarati, but I caught words like resistor, capacitor, photoelectric diode, etc.

They proceeded to do their demonstration, and honestly, I was blown away. In a nutshell, they designed and developed a miniature prototype for a photoelectric diode installation on the front of a car that can detect incoming beams of light and automatically adjust the brightness of its headbeams. They argued that this would dramatically improve highway safety at night when trucks often leave their highbeams on, temporarily blinding incoming traffic.




Afterwards, I took a short trip down memory lane, recalling my days in high school when I built robots for Science Olympiad. Unlike these students' inventions however, mine just drove around and picked up small objects. Needless to say, I was humbled and thoroughly impressed.

Getting a Little Too Friendly?

in

I posted a while ago about how I felt my how my co-teacher, Yogesh, and I were really starting to get along both on a friendship and professional level. We had this conversation earlier today. I'm not exactly sure what it indicates.

Yogesh:(seeing some of our students walking across the courtyard) Look, those are some of our kids.. OUR STUDENTS! I meant our students!
Me: Yes, our students. We are not married.
Yogesh: (laughs and sticks out his hand for a high-five)

Maybe this is why people keep saying that it's better to keep your personal life out of the workplace...

Monsoon Season's Scorching Exit

in


I'd been looking forward to this time of the year for months, when the monsoon rains come to an end and temperatures gradually start dropping to more reasonable levels. I was unaware, though, that for the last couple weeks before the monsoons bid their final farewell, temperatures go through the roof! Right now, temperatures are steady around 38-40˚C (100-105˚F), and they'll get up to 43˚C (110˚F) by next week!

Summers growing up in Georgia have taught me a few tricks that are coming in handy: pillow-flipping, t-shirts in the freezer, and wet towels to cover my face to name a few. Does anyone have any other suggestions or a free air-conditioning unit they could offer?

Happy Ganesh Chaturthi!

in

Ganesh Chaturthi is a 10-day long festival honoring Ganesh, the Hindu god associated with wealth, success, and the removal of obstacles. In the weeks leading up to the festival, idols of Ganesh are constructed all over India, some as small as an inch tall and others as tall as 25 feet! The celebration of Ganesh Chaturthi ends on the 10th day when the idols of Ganesh are taken to be submerged in bodies of water, symbolizing a sending off of Ganesh to his home in Kailash while also taking with him the misfortunes of his worshipers.



I came back to Kadod just in time for the last day of the festival, otherwise known as Ganesh Visarjan. In Kadod, there's a road that stretches down to the bank of the Tapi River, making this town the most convenient place for Ganesh Visarjan to take place within a 10km radius. From noon until 7:30pm today, more than 60 Ganesh idols were brought in on ornately decorated carts pulled by tractors and vans. With each procession, the devotees of that particular idol would dance to music booming from loudspeakers, throwing handfuls of pink-colored powder at each other and at bystanders, like me.





When I was asked several times by friends and familiar students to dance with them and play dodgeball with globs of colored powder, I felt so relieved to be back in Kadod where, unlike cities like Jaipur, I feel people make genuine efforts to make me feel like a part of their community. I was happy today being able to comfortably call Kadod my home away from home.


Jaipur - The Bad

in

I apologize in advance to my readers if this post comes across as overly negative and pessimistic, but to be honest, there was a moment during my stay in Jaipur when I felt like I hit rock-bottom. I wanted out of India, away from the people that constantly call me Japanese and jeer at me saying sayonara, and the pervasive attitude of people trying to cheat every foreigner that crosses their paths.

It all started with Rahul, the rickshaw driver I thought had become a good friend in a city very foreign to me. If you read my last post, you know Rahul as the guy who took me and Emily to see a few of Jaipur's historic sites on the day. At the end of that day, he stopped his rickshaw on the aide of the road to tell me that we were his first American friends and asked us to shake his hand to seal our friendships. It wasn't a few minutes later when he asked if we could do him a favor and visit his uncle's store even if we don't decide to buy anything. His "uncle" was at best just a friend, and we were thrown into this store where the owner harassed us for half an hour trying to get us to buy his overly priced textiles. Well, we eventually got out of that place with clear expressions of anger and frustration. We didn't want anything to do with Rahul anymore, and I realized it was a huge mistake to have given Rahul my number because for next couple days, he called me 50+ times with the obvious intention of harassing me.

This next story still makes my blood boil every time I replay the events in my memory. Emily and I were window shopping through a bazaar near the Hawa Mahal when a man inside a chinaware shop stopped us to chat. His name was Akram, and he started talking to us about how everything in these bazaars are overpriced for tourists. Wow, at least one person understands our plight, I thought. After a few minutes, Akram told us that he had a girlfriend in the UK that he really wanted to write to, except he didn't know how to write in English. When he asked us if we could transcribe a short letter for him, we said we'd be more than happy to. So for the next 20 or so minutes, we helped Akram write a nice, albeit cheesy, love letter to his British girlfriend, Cecilia.





He wanted to return the favor and refused when we told him that it really wasn't necessary. He told us that he knew of a place on the outskirts of the city, a factory where a lot of the textiles and handicrafts sold to tourists in the city are manufactured. It was at this factory, he said, where we'd be able to buy everything for prices that would make us want to get 5 of everything.

All together, we take a rickshaw several kilometers away from the metro area to a dusty part of town where we were introduced to Raj, the owner of the the "factory." Raj looked more like a stereotypical thug than the owner of a textile factory with a clean-shaven goatee, expensive jeans, and a pair of Ray-Ban shades. This so-called "factory" was a single room with a couple large tables, rugs hanging on the concrete walls, and a couple people pretending to look busy stretching out fabric. He explained that production was slow that day because the power was out. An interesting excuse seeing as how there was no piece of machinery or even a light bulb for that matter in that room.

We then followed Raj up a set of stairs for the real reason why he wanted us there. The second level was essentially a giant fabric store teeming with other tourists that had been dragged there with the same promise that they'd be able to get dirt cheap prices for anything they wanted. We let him give us his shpeel about the amazing quality of his fabrics, but did not take too much time before telling him we wanted to leave. He was charging at least twice as much as Rahul's "uncle" had the day before. A Korean tourist named Jun Hyup approached me with a terrified look on his face, and asked me, in Korean, if this was a good place or not. I told him that he needed to get the heck out of the place. He told me that he was dragged there without knowing where he was being taken (we met up for dinner later that night to unwind and vent our frustrations about the city).

On the way out of the capital of tourist scams, I caught a pair of tourists who were on their way in and whispered to them that they needed to be careful. Akram, Emily, and I were walking away when Raj grabbed me by the arm and asked me why I was trying to kill his business. I told him that it was wrong for him to lie, to pay rickshaw drivers commissions to trick tourists into coming to his store, and to take advantage of peoples' trusts and unfamiliarity of India. Thinking that I didn't understand Hindi, he told Akram to never bring people like me back to his store.

We told Akram we were tired and that we wanted to just head back to where he had found us. We all hopped on a bus, paid our fare, and found seats near the back. After about 5 minutes, without a single word or eye contact, Akram got up and jumped off the bus, leaving us without a clue as to where we were going. What in the world? A couple really confusing minutes passed, and with a really bad feeling about things, I decided it would be wise for us to get off the bus and figure out where we were. I asked a nearby shop owner a few questions, and found out that the road we were on led out of the city into the desert north of Jaipur. He had tried to get rid of us in the desert.

It was then that I realized it had all been an act from the beginning. He didn't have a girlfriend in the UK. By asking us to help him write that letter, he was taking advantage of tourists' desires to help a local and make a friend in the process. Jaipur is teeming with people like Akram, people who get paid a small commission for deceiving people into false friendships, gaining their trusts, then leaving them after they've been milked for all they're worth.

For the rest of that day, as I kept rejecting call after call from Rahul, I thought to myself how much I wanted India to be a country I could one day fall in love with, a place I'd leave and know I'd return to someday. I know that to locals, I'm different. I look, talk, and act differently. Expecting them to not think this way would be highly unreasonable, but how should I react when people left and right are out to take advantage of the ways that make me different from them? In their minds, I'm nothing close to being one of them, I'm just another foreigner with money, some of which can end up in their pockets if they just play their cards right.

Rickshaw driver: Oh! Sayonara!
Me: Sorry, I'm not Japanese.
Rickshaw driver: Yes, you are! Sayonara!! (laughs and to his friends in Hindi) The Japanese is angry at me!
(I start walking away.)
Rickshaw driver: Angry Japanese! Where are you going?? Sayonara! (laughs and honks his horn) Sayonara!!

I'm sorry again for this very negative post. I'm sad that my time in India has to be shadowed gray by these experiences, but it's a part of India that unfortunately exists. I didn't come to India expecting everything to be perfect, but these past few days have pushed me really close to a breaking point I didn't think I would ever get near.

Jaipur - The Good

in

I have an extreme love-hate relationship with Jaipur. Seeing the sights and what Jaipur has to offer for tourists was a great experience and one that I’m really glad I had. Unfortunately, I had to endure the other side of Jaipur where tourists are ruthlessly taken advantage of, tricked, and cheated into making poor decisions. I decided to blog about Jaipur in two entries. This one will focus on my brighter experiences in Jaipur, and the second will have a couple stories that pretty much sum up how a vacation can be ruined.

My first day in the Pink City, known for its historical architecture made with pink-colored sandstone, made me believe that I was in the city that so many travelers grow to love. Just a couple hours after sunrise, I climbed up a mountain ridge to a temple at the Royal Gaitor to catch a breath-taking view of Jaipur, surrounded by mountains and lakes. I was incredibly happy to finally be seeing this side of India for the first time. Being able to see more of the country that’s been home for me for the past 4 months was refreshing and kind of satisfying, too.




Earlier that morning, we hired Rahul, a rickshaw driver, to take us around a few sites for the day, and he was excellent at keeping up a friendly conversation as we went from place to place. He was quick to tell us how to be careful around the city and how to avoid cheaters who would try to sell us fake jewelry and handicrafts. We thought we lucked out with such a nice rickshaw driver!

The next stop was Amber Fort, a mammoth defensive structure built by the Meenas around 1600, which is made almost entirely out of red sandstone and white marble. We decided to opt out of paying for a guide and just take our time navigating our way through the hundreds of small corridors, up and down spiral staircases, and through the many open courtyards and gardens. Even without the guide telling us all the historical facets of the fort, its architecture, and its history, there was more than enough to just take in visually.



Right outside the fort, I bumped into a group of snake charmers. I’d heard that Jaipur still had a handful of snake charmers around the city despite it being outlawed in India in the late 1990s. As they probably do with most tourists passing by the area, they called me over to sit with them and gave me a flute to start serenading their snakes. As much as I tried, I could only get one note out of my flute, and I was afraid that the cobra staring straight at me was going to snap and take a bite. Thankfully, the older man sitting to my right took over musically, while the cobra was lifted out of its basket and around my neck! All I kept telling myself to calm down was ”This is normal… this is normal… this is normal…” I thanked them for the unique experience, gave them a small tip and made my way back to our wonderful rickshaw driver, Rahul.



In my following days in Jaipur, I visited the Surya Masjid (Sun Temple), also known as Monkey Temple, for its hundreds of primate inhabitants. Armed with a small bag of peanuts, I hiked up the long winding path up to the temple, occasionally holding out a peanut to have monkey swing down from a tree to snatch it away. A few times, I had to exercise caution as a group of 10-15 monkeys would start trailing behind me, knowing that the source of food was located in my left pocket.




One of the last things Emily and I did in Jaipur was high tea at the Rambagh Palace with Julia and Tom, a couple of Americans we met at our hotel. Sure, it was on the pricey side, but having the chance to share high tea and an amazing spread of snacks and sandwiches with Julia and Tom talking about all our travels, our experiences and thoughts made it well worth it. After tea, we devised a plan to be on business searching for the perfect hotel for our families in hopes to get a free tour of the palace. Unfortunately, we were only given a short tour of a room and a brief history lesson about the palace since most parts of the hotel are kept extremely exclusive for guests (paying a minimum of $690 for a night and as high as $12,800)!




I would've loved to have left Jaipur with only these experiences to remember, but my next post truthfully reveals another side of the city, and possibly more cities throughout India, that left a very bitter impression on my memory.

Happy Ramzan Eid!

in

Weeks earlier, one of my Spoken English students, Rizwan, invited Zach and myself to celebrate Ramzan Ei (also known as Eid ul-Fitr) with his family. Ramzan Eid marks the end of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan during which Muslims fast from sun up until sun down every day.

Traditionally, it is forbidden to fast on this day, so the day began with Zach, myself, and Rizwan's family sharing a small breakfast. We showered compliment after compliment on Rizwan for his enthusiasm in Spoken English, but his parents still told us that if he ever acts up during class, we shouldn't hesitate to do what we have to put him back in line. We didn't ask them to clarify.

At 1pm, I returned to Rizwan's house to have lunch, which was chicken biriyiani, assorted vegetables and popper (fried, fluffy, corn chips kind of dish). I arrived at 1, as I was told to do, but the rest of the family had already eaten right before I got to the house. I was really confused why I was the only one with a plate while the rest of them were just watching me. I begged them to at least a little with me, but I think they preferred and actually enjoyed just watching me eat.

After lunch, Rizwan's father drove me to the cosway (bridge) which had been underwater for the past few weeks due to the monsoon's. Just this morning, the waters had receded enough to let bikes and cars drive through. We spent at least half an hour walking through the water coming up to our ankles talking about the village, his career as a bus driver, and Rizwan's future. Although I have a long long way to go before I feel comfortable with my Hindi, I was so happy that I had this conversation with him and was able to spend time like this with someone in the village.


Closing Shop

in

Zach and I were just told by the principal that because of recent low turnout in our afternoon Spoken English class, the class would now only be offered in the morning. It's hard to not be discouraged by this. I've been struggling to answer why fewer and fewer students are coming out to class. Are they realizing that other tuition classes, particularly in the maths and sciences, are more valuable to attend after school? Were they expecting the class to be more fun and interactive? Do they just not have an incentive to spend an hour each day learning more English than they feel that they have to? Am I doing something wrong as a teacher?

I've had to constantly adapt and change my idea of what it means to be a teacher ever since teaching my first class 3 months ago, but grappling with setbacks time and time again has been making it hard for me to feel grounded enough to make concrete judgments and improvements on my teaching. Dhire, dhire...

Deepu, You Don't Have to Cover Your Face!

in

It was time to start Unit 6 in my 8th standard class. The unit was named "Time to Laugh" and consisted of a number of short jokes in the form of dialogues. Some of the jokes, I'll admit, were mildly humorous, but I was so shocked when I found this joke near the end of the unit.

Amar: Deepu, why have you covered your face?
Deepu: Because, my papa has told me, "Don't show me your face if you fail!"

Excuse me?! What does that teach the students?? I'm not sure, but it can't be anything very constructive..


Not the actual Deepu

Could It Be?!

in

Since the beginning of August, there have only been a handful of times when a day would pass without at least one heavy rain shower. Most days, it fluctuates between heavy rain and light drizzle, and the sky is always grey and overcast. I was walking to my afternoon Spoken English class when I looked up at the sky and saw something that made me just stop in stare.

A small sliver of blue sky!! It might not seem much to you guys, but I was beside myself when I saw it. Maybe it was the prospect of not having to cower under my mosquito net every night to fend off the swarms or not having to worry about getting showered by cars driving too fast through puddles. Whatever it was, it was unfortunately short-lived. It was already raining by the time class was over.

Happy Krishna Janmashtami!

in

Today, Hindus around the world celebrated Krishna Janmashtami, a festival commemorating the birth of the god, Krishna. Thanks to Hiren Patel's enormous generosity, I was able to witness parts of the celebration in his community and with his family. According to Hiren, in years past, communities in Kadod would begin celebrating Janmashtami and have songs and prayers occurring 24 hours a day for 8 consecutive days. That practice has been left to tradition, but members of the Hindu community here will still pray and sing several hours a day during this time of celebration. Thank you again, Hiren!




Singapore!

in

It's my first day back in Kadod after an amazing 10-day trip to Singapore! In a nutshell, 10 days felt way too short. Some people say that after that much time, you'll probably have seen most of what Singapore has to offer since it is a pretty small country. But despite that popular opinion, there was always too much to do each day I was there. I also owe it to so many of my friends that made my trip so much fun. Thanks Huei-Yu, Catalina, Jeffrey, Katherine, Natalie, Tiffy, and Jon for going out your ways to show me such a good time!

I hadn't been in India for an incredibly long time before I left to Singapore. It's been about 2 months, but I still had a minor case of culture shock once I arrived. On one of the first days I was there, I walked out of the MRT train station onto Orchard Road and couldn't stop myself from saying "Where am I?!"

The streets were amazingly clean, the trains and public transportation ran like clockwork, and things everywhere just seemed to work like a well-oiled machine. I did get a kick out all the "Do Not..." signs posted almost everywhere I looked. People there joke around and say that Singpore is a fine country.


One thing I'm definitely going to miss about Singapore is the food. Thanks to my amazing hosts, I got to have some of the must-have Singaporean dishes like chili crab, chicken rice, and laksa. One really memorable meal was supper (the meal after dinner) after a Singapore Symphony Orchestra concert at an outdoor food court type place. It was around midnight, and the place was packed. When it was time for us to order food, Jon just went into and ordering frenzy. He ordered piles of naan, pratha, a Thai rice dish, Indonesian satay, and drinks for the entire group.
Jon: I want a Milo Godzilla (an iced chocolate milk kind of drink with ice cream, whipped cream, and powdered chocolate on top).
Waiter: I'm sorry, sir, but we don't serve the Milo Godzilla. We have the Milo Dinosaur.
Jon: Well, can we have one of that then. But make it HUGE. (this is when he started getting his hands involved trying to explain HUGE to the waiter). Like, this kid's been in India for the past 2 months, so make it HUGE alright? And what's the best thing you guys have here?
Waiter: This Thai rice dish is very good.
Jon: Ok. What's BETTER than that?? And make it HUGE.

Thanks, Jon.


Apart from all the amazing food I got to try, the rest of the trip included a ride on the Singapore Flyer, a short visit to the Marina Bay Sands Casino with Huei-Yu's older brother, a late night tour of the Singapore Zoo Night Safari, and even some "relaxation" at a fish spa. The particular kind of fish in the pools like to eat dead skin, supposedly allowing more healthy skin to grow in those areas. The feeling of have hundreds of fish swarming around my legs and feet was interesting to say the least... but it did feel surprisingly refreshing!
I could go on and on about my time in Singapore... I really hope it won't be my last time there. It was really tough leaving the country to come back to India, but being back in Kadod now, I feel extremely refreshed and ready to get back into the classrooms!

I'm in Singapore Okay Lah??

in

After a 24+ hour journey from Kadod to Singapore, taking a few rickshaws, buses, an overcrowded train and a Kingfisher airplane, I finally made it!

7:45am
I hopped on a Bardoli-bound rickshaw leaving Kadod and, for the first time, experienced what morning rush-hour means in the villages. The rickshaw, at best, can comfortably seat 7 passengers. By the time I reached Bardoli, I counted at least 18 squeezing into, dangling off of and climbing onto the rickshaw. I say at least because I couldn't count how many had hopped onto the roof during the trip.

8:30am
I got on a bus heading to Surat where my train would be leaving to Mumbai. I let out a sigh of relief as I sank into an empty seat, glad that there wouldn't be unknown elbows and shoulders driving into my sides. I took out my iPod to start listening to some tunes and sadly realized that when I had updated my iPod the night before, it had only synced one album back on: the soundtrack to 3 Idiots. Aal iz well...

10:15am
My train to Mumbai was scheduled to leave at 11:25am, so I had about an hour to kill. I decided to grab breakfast at a restaurant on the second level of the train station where I struck up a conversation with one of the workers named Javit. I told him that I'm teaching English in Kadod for a year, and when he asked me if I knew any Gujarati, I said I hardly knew any. He gave me a crash course on some important phrases, and after a half hour or so, he told me that my Gujarati was perfect. I highly doubted that, but I thanked him for the compliment.

11:20am
Javit offered to take me to the platform I needed to wait on for my train, and thank goodness he did. I bought a second class train ticket not knowing what I had gotten myself into. For the 5 hour ride to Mumbai, it was each and every person's desire to be lucky enough to snag a seat on one of the pull-down beds in the train compartments. Otherwise, it would be standing-room only for the entire trip. Lacking the seasoned tenacity of most of the travelers swarming around me, I was at a natural disadvantage, but that's where Javit stepped in to save the day. As the train was coming to a halt, he spotted an empty seat through a caged window and threw his work hat to "reserve" the seat for me. He told me to hurry in and find the hat before someone moves or steals it, so I threw myself into the back of the surging crowd of people fighting its way onto the train. In the midst of all the chaos, my watch was torn off and wallet almost stolen as I felt a hand reach into my back pocket. When I was finally able to get both feet onto the train, I searched from compartment to compartment for Javit's hat, and luckily enough, his trick worked. I threw his hat back to him through the window and thanked him enormously for his help.

4:45pm
My flight's departure time was at 11:00pm. I knew I'd be really early, but I figured I could find a coffee shop or something of the sort inside the airport to relax and read a book to pass the time. I approach the entrance and was stopped by two men in uniform. They checked my passport and reservation and told me that travelers are not allowed to enter the airport until 3 hours before their scheduled departure. I told them that I had no where else to go and that I all I wanted was a place to relax. In a completely unnecessary move, one of the officers put a hand on his rifle and told me that he would only give me one warning to step away. Great. I found an abandoned Smart Carte, propped it up against a wall along the curb, and waited out the 3 hours reading a book and listening to my new favorite Bollywood songs.

The rest of the journey was pretty uneventful. I touched down in Singapore at around 7am local time, exhausted but also extremely excited about what I'll be experiencing (eating) in Singapore! More updates to come in Singapore!

We're Getting There

in

A few weeks ago, Yogesh, my co-teacher, and I made an agreement that if I taught him how to speak English more fluently/accurately, he would teach me Hindi. At the get go, we had a pretty hard time communicating with each other. For example, I'd say something like "We should think about how we can get the students more interested in their English lessons." He would stare at me for a couple of seconds then turn back to his work hoping that whatever I just said didn't need a response.

Since then, we've taken huge leaps in our ability to communicate with each other, but there's still more work to be done. We had this conversation yesterday:

Me: What exactly do people mean when they say Muhje samaj pari?
Yogesh: (says something that I just could not understand) Do you understand?
Me: ... No.
Yogesh: I know. (laughs and puts up his hand for a high-five)

Kho-Kho Competition

in

One of my classroom routines in Spoken English class is to ask students what they did last night, and 9 times out of 10, I get the same response: Last night, I played kho-kho. What was this kho-kho? It sounded a lot like a board game to me, so that's just what I assumed it was.

This morning at Spoken English class, a few of the boys told me that the school was having a kho-kho competition and that I should go and watch. "Sure!" I said. I imagined a bunch of students sitting in the auditorium, huddling over boards and game pieces. I'll stay for a few minutes, say hi to my students, and head back to the staffroom, I thought.

After teaching third period, Yogesh, Dave, Apeksha, Adarash, and I headed to the competition. "It's at the third ground," Yogesh told me. The third ground? That's just a huge field by the hostel. Students are playing board games there? On the other side of the bridge connecting the third ground to the rest of the school, we saw a mass of students surrounding a playing field marked with white powder, much like a football field. We got closer to find students in team uniforms running and chasing each other down a line of other squatting team members. Each time a player was tagged out, the audience wooped and hollered. I tried to figure out what the point of the game was by watching, but after a few minutes, I just felt more confused.

I found Dhirenbhai, the computer teacher, standing on the opposite side of the field, so I went over and asked him to explain the rules to me, and it all started to make sense. Here are the rules in a nutshell: How to play kho-kho

We came when the first half of the finals were underway, and the Kadod team, made up mostly of juniors and seniors, were the chasers. The opposing team finished the 7-minute half tagging out 4 members of the opposing team. Here’s a picture taken of the Kadod team during half-time as they kept repeated to themselves over and over again all they needed to do was to prevent 4 of their teammates from being tagged out to win.
The whistle signaled the start of the second half. There was shouting. There was diving. And there were some very close calls. Two Kadod players were tagged out within the first 2 minutes of the half. I could feel a wave of anxiety spread over the onlookers. But then Jaunti, Kadod’s star player, stepped out onto the field. Even in the wet mud, Jaunti was able to maneuver swiftly away from chasers, making split-second decisions to cross over the line to avoid falling into traps. One minute passed, then two, and then three. Out of frustration, players of the other team began lunging at Jaunti desperately. Each time he was able to avoid begin tagged, Kadod fans would jump and cheer to push him on. The final whistle blew, and Kadod was victorious 4-2! All at once, the students rushed the field and lifted the players onto their shoulders. It was an awesome display of school spirit.

With this victory, Kadod will play in the district competitions on August 30th. Since most of you readers are probably new to this sport, you have no other team to root for besides Kadod, so wish them luck!





New Kids on the Block

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Introducing the newest members of the Nanubhai team in Kadod, we have David, Apeksha, and Adarsh. Apeksha and David are both sophomores at M.I.T., and Adarsh is Apeksha's cousin, a sophomore in high school. They'll be joining us in the wonderful village of Kadod doing field work/research for Nanubhai and also spearheading their own project concerning women's education and advancement in India.

For the past couple of days, they've been going from classroom to classroom giving students a questionnaire designed to evaluate the effectiveness of English education at the high schools in Kadod and Madhi. Some of the questions ask students to describe their favorite and least favorite activities, how English classes could be improved, and how satisfied they are with the amount of English they're learning. I'm sure a lot of the responses will be very helpful, but it was a challenge to keep students from just copying responses off their neighbor's form. In one class, a few students (out of 58) wrote their own responses, and the rest of the students just waited until their neighbor copied answers from their neighbor, and so on and so forth. In total, we got about 5 unique responses.

It's been fun having them here though! David's got us all doing P90X workouts at night, which is turning out to be a great way to bond. We're about to watch 3 Idiots, a Bollywood movie I've only been hearing amazing things about, so until next time, namaste!

Mumbai

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A few quick wiki-facts:
- Mumbai is the 2nd most populous city in the world with a population of 14 million
- It was formerly named Bombay
- Mumbai is the home of Bollywood
- Mumbai generates 70% of India's capital transactions

We were invited to attend a one day conference at the Orchid Hotel in Mumbai sponsored by the ETS (Education Testing Services) for English teachers that help students prepare for the TOEFL exam. These are the same people that design and administer the SAT, PSAT and GRE. We arrived in Mumbai on Tuesday afternoon, and with the conference starting the next morning, we had the rest of the afternoon and night to do what we pleased. Emily had been to Mumbai just a few days ago during the weekend, so we trusted her to take us to a few places she thought would be fun to visit.

First on the itinerary was the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf in the Bandra area of Mumbai, which had a very Starbucks-esque ambience. I wasn't feeling too adventurous (or willing to pay Rs. 190 = $4 for a dessert drink) so I just opted for the brew of the day. I hadn't had real, brewed coffee in several weeks so I'll admit I did end up feeling a little jittery but the taste of familiar coffee really hit the spot. At the cafe, we struck a conversation with a pastor, whose name was Mark, of a church in Mumbai and Scott, a freelance photographer from Indiana working with Mark. I was really interested in knowing more about his church, its worship and mission, and a little bit into our conversation, he told me that the church is actually connected to Redeemer Presbyterian in New York! What a small world! I told him eagerly that the next time I'm in Mumbai over a weekend, which hopefully isn't too far from now, I would definitely drop by for service on Sunday morning. What also really surprised me was that everyone, including Westerners and local Indians, spoke English. Before I left the states, a lot of people asked me why I was being sent to India to teach English since most Indians already know how to speak English. I'd respond by saying that where I was posted in Kadod, less than 5% of the student population know English. Hearing Indians in Mumbai use English as their go-to language in conversation just blew my mind, but at the same time, what would you expect of people who began learning English since the year they began going to school?
After waiting out a torrential rain shower, we had a rickshaw take us to the train station where we'd take a local train to Kolaba, known for some fine-dining restaurants and street-side shopping. Wow. I don't know what else to say. Just watch the video.


Our mission, to find the Indigo Delicatessen, ended up being a much harder task than we anticipated. Every store owner, street vendor, or random passerby we asked gave us different directions. We were certain that many people didn't know their rights from their lefts. I swear we passed the same corner at least 5 times after rounding a couple blocks several more times before, finally, we got to our destination. All I have to say is that all the searching, walking, and waiting was well worth it. At the top of the entrees menu was a sirloin beef burger with lettuce, onions, spicy mustard, and a special, home-made sauce. I didn't have to read much further before making my decision. I just can't describe in words the overwhelming sensation of bliss I experienced after taking my first jaw-stretching bite out of that burger. There was no decreasing marginal returns for my enjoyment while I ate that dinner. Each bite only tasted better than the last. But it's true, good things never last, and taking my last bite felt like saying goodbye to an old friend.

With satisfied stomachs, we made our way to the Mondegar Cafe, a bar heavily frequented by travelers. They really did a good job making the place feel like a bar back in the states. It was crowded, noisy, and even had a jukebox going with American music. It was getting late, but we weren't in any rush. We played a few games of categories, "Never Have I Ever," and my favorite, 3-player mafia. The night ended when we headed to Priya's cousin's apartment, which he was so nice to let us stay in for our short stay in Mumbai.

All in all, I can't wait to come back to Mumbai. There are so many more parts of the city for me to see and so many more things I could do. Apparently, for about $12, I can spend a day at the site of a Bollywood film company and be an extra in a Bollywood movie, all meals provided. Maybe it could be my big break!

Weekend in Valsad

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Before our last class on Saturday, Yogesh says to me in the staffroom, "I am very happy if you come with me to Valsad meet my friends and their families." The timing of his invitation couldn't have been better. I was really feeling like I needed to get away from Kadod for a little while, and plus, it had been some time since I explored other parts of Gujarat.

Since Valsad was a far-ish trip (2.5 hours), he decided that we'd stay for Saturday and Sunday and come back some time on Sunday night. In absolute, complete honesty, I loved every part of this weekend from spending more time with Yogesh, meeting people my age for a change, downing cup after cup chai at every house we visited, and eating amazing, authentic, home-cooked Gujarati food.

We made a trip out to a beach of the Arabian Sea on the outskirts of Valsad. Even though the "sand" was still India's typical alluvial soil, it was a huge improvement from the Surat debacle about a month ago. We walked up and down the shore, played a game of tag (that only made me realize how out of shape I am), and I rode my first camel!





I'm still so blown away by the way people open their doors and go out of their way to make me feel comfortable, at home, and welcome. No matter how much I would try to thankfully decline their offers of food, snack after snack and dish after dish were passing in front of me like an assembly line. When I start talking about my family, I feel like we start playing a game of 20 (or more like 50) questions because of how interested they are about knowing more about me. What sums it up was what one of Yogesh's friends said when we visited her house on Sunday. "Here, you have a new family."

Enjoy some more videos!